Posts by Bj229r

    The threshold WAS installed, he set it in mortar, actually THAT was the only thing he did that looked square. He ALSO set the frame in the same mortar, where the bottom of the door was hitting the frame, when the TOP was still 3/8" away. Had to pop out the threshold, chisel away all the mortar from the bottom of the frame, that I could align it properly. That's about where it's been sitting for 2 weeks, while I ponder next step, AND wait for new anchor bolts

    Sorry BJ but I keep looking at that piano hinge and wondering WTF. Didnt the door come with proper hinges?


    Like I said,I'd take the door out and fix that first,then the rest it a mater of what you're willing to accept. There's many ways to clean it up. If you need more room to shim the jam plumb you may need to plane the 2x6 down a 1/4 or 3/8ths.If water is an issue increase the width of those drains and make sure the weepers/big O can handle most of it,oh and get a proper threshold.

    Lol, I WANTED the piano hinge, I've become a fan of them over years. Was just looking at it, need to make up that 1/4", and we have a 12" planer, which will likely be how that goes. The recessed lags bite well through the 2x6 into concrete if you make the right sized hole all the way thru...(5/16" in this case) This fucker apparently didn't have a bit, and just sawed them off. Still looking for a final solution for the threshhold. I'd prefer something that has a vertical piece in the back that that door runs into. (Have to push bike over it, may have to make something for it to pass over and not fuck it up). Haven't even bothered with the windows yet, may not for some time, as after procedure on thursday, I owe University of Virginia medical center $3,700

    Is that a typo, or do you actually get 3 feet of water against your basement wall? I thought I had it bad when there was a trickle of water running into my crawl space. Isn't there some way you can address the more important drainage issue?

    Although I'm on a mountain in VA, I have high ground on 3 sides, with a small creek going through the property. Combined with a bridge JUST downstream from house that doesn't have enough width to let hurricane-type water through, there you are. It's never up like that more than a few hours, but it DOES happen, sometimes not for years. Those two hurricanes that hit the SE last fall, each of them put 3'+ in the backyard in backyard in span of 3 weeks. House has been there since WW2, if that shit was gonna ruin it, it would have long before now

    The piece of shit top 40 song was the only one that ever got on the radio. To hear the better cuts, you had to buy the album. Until I saw Apocalypse Now, I had NO fucking idea the Doors were anything more than a top 40 band

    Wife eyeballed them, they drilled in a LOT of rebar. It's the backside of a walk-out basement, looks aren't the BIGGEST thing, but the bigger picture is water sometimes comes up 3'+ on the outside, and I want enough of a seal (and support) that that sump pump can keep up (hence the outward-opening door) If the concrete/block went ALL the way up, would make it all a lot simpler. Not sure how else you'd secure the metal frame absent 2x6's or something

    Well, regardless of how it goes, I need to fill in the hollow metal part with some variety of mortar, and it would need to be very runny. At present, I'm leaning toward pulling the whole fucking thing loose, putting 2x6 in correct place, probably buying a 1x6 in addition and planing it down to the correct thickness...fuck. I don't need this shit

    https://www.seattletimes.com/s…ng-to-come-out-of-hiding/



    Quote


    In Washington state, where his approval rating is 28 points underwater, Trump has still racked up far more donations, big and small, than any of the Democratic candidates — in fact more than the top six Democrats combined.


    Quote

    Well, now Trump, of all candidates, has nearly three times as many donations from Washington state as Bernie Sanders does. The Vermont senator has 8,080 itemized donations here, while Trump has the most ever recorded at this point in an election, by any candidate in either party, 21,657.


    What’s more, these are “itemized donations” — meaning the donors were required to list their names, occupations and addresses, and risk the backlash Selig was so concerned about.

    So you can look through the list and see that just in Seattle, Trump has the support of a seamstress, an airline pilot, a crane operator, a teacher, a nurse, a city of Seattle firefighter, a UW professor, a longshoreman and about a thousand others. In total they’ve given $93,042.

    Past this point of the last campaign, Trump had only six donations from Seattle — and when The Seattle Times contacted the donors, two said they wanted their money back.

    Neighbor down the road recommended him. Am NOT gonna take his recommendation for fixing jeep

    (Barb put paint on the door, can't blame him for THAT--the plan is to glue thin boards to it, make it look like a castle door from a distance)

    Turning a 8' wide garage door/walk out basement into a 4' steel outswinging door. Door is odd height (74", had to have it custom made, not cheap). Hired a well-recommended guy to plunk it in, fill in each open side with poured concrete to about 4' high. then glass blocks for the upper 2' and change. The guy fucked up every POSSIBLE thing you could fuck up, mind-numbing. Fucked up the mold for the pour, and the middle pushed out most of an inch. The door itself is framed in by 2x6, anchored by 3 long bolts on each side, which go thru the 2x6 into the recently-poured concrete (theoretically) He set the frame, didn't have it true on the strike side in NEITHER plane, such that when you shut the door, the bottom of the door is touching, top is 3/8" away. To make it worse, the vertical 2x6 on the strike side doesn't line up with the frame, such that on the outside, the frame, at the bottom, misses the board completely by 1/2", so cranking down the bolts only serves to torque the frame.


    The bottom of the frame was set in an inch or so of mortar, so I spent all fucking day (this is a couple weeks ago, after I'd gotten back from a 2 week road trip) chiseling THAT out, removing the 6" bolts (WHICH I found he'd sawed off, so he wouldn't have to buy a 5/16" mason bit), got that part true, door shuts now. STILL have problem with the front part of the frame dangling in free air at bottom. REALLY not wanting to remove the whole fucking 4' door/frame (has a continuous hinge, with a good 20 attachment points to make that strike side 2x6 line up, am pondering (after I get the replacement bolts I'd ordered) caulking over the air gap, then filling everything in with pourable concrete. On the strike side, I can pour it thru the deadbolt holt to get it up THAT far, have to drill a hole on the hinge side