Soo.. lets talk gun cleaning.

  • The corrosive ammo thread proves the importance. It is a mundane chore that some like and some hate. My buddy has not cleaned a gun in his entire 68 years of life.. it shows too... took me an hour to clean two of his guns.


    First.....................history of cleaning guns................Black powder.............shooters soon realized that if you did not clean black powder firearms they either quit functioning.. and/or rusted into piles of shit.. Black powder residue attracts moisture and rust.


    Then..... corrosive primers... these were used all the way up till the 70's or even later in some cases... what that means is that the primers themselves contain salts of mercury that when fired.. deposit a corrosive film on metal parts... not good.


    Today.... all primers today are non corrosive. This means no harm can come from the primers just because you won't clean your guns.


    Second.. powder residue.......... Black powder is not good to leave as it attracts moisture/rust.


    Smokeless powder.... from the start it left very little (comparatively) residue ... it would take hundreds or more rounds of fired ammo to actually build up enough to affect function but rust was not a problem.............one thing.. some powders were very 'dirty' leaving mini charcoal briquettes all over the guns action when fired... early powders all suffered from this to one extent or another... Unique was particularly bad and also particularly useful in many loads.


    Today.... Most modern smokeless powders burn clean... relatively.. In a revolver you have cylinder barrel gap that can actually close due to not cleaning but you can actually wipe some of this away... it is possible to fire thousands of rounds of smokeless without a failure due to crud. In practical terms it is usually much less.


    Bore..... The bore of rifles and pistols gets fouled.. a tiny bit does no harm. Fouling can be jacket material or lead. I have seen 100 year old 22 rifles that were so leaded up that no rifling was visible.. these guns obviously suffer greatly in the accuracy department. Many surplus rifles suffer from jacket material in clumps in the bore.. this also effects accuracy... I once shot a very fouled 98K mauser and got 5 inch groups at 50 yards.. after a day of scrubbing and who knows how many worn out bore brushes the bore was pristine.. the same gun shot inch and a half groups.


    lead.. lead will stick to the grooves of a barrel like flies on shit. Removing lead can be a real chore. There are a dozen ways to prevent it and a dozen ways to clean it if you get one.


    NEXT cleaning supplies.. what works and what does not and how to use em.


    lazs

    "Don't let it end like this. Tell them I said something."



    Pancho Villa, last words (1877 - 1923)

  • Ok.. .solvents... lubes... preservatives... bore solvents.....


    The quisling was not wrong... CLP is a good all around product but not the best solvent. clean the gun then use CLP


    Ok.... solvents. These are for cleaning only. Over the years I have used dozens of brands.. some really good and some pretty fucking worthless really.. one thing they have in common is price.. they are ALL OVER PRICED.. this is my opinion.. Hoppes is actually the worst.. it was not always so.. is now.


    The pic shows two revolvers being cleaned and a small selection of solvents and lubes etc.


    By far.... for me... Ed's Red works the best.. my cost is around $10 a gallon maybe $15? but you have to make it yourself and it stinks unless you add Amyl Nitrate (citrus solvent) A bonus is.. this will also work as a penetrating oil or lubricant around the house.... next? solvent wise is something like Butches bore shine. or for metal fouling Sweets 7.62 They have no penetrating ability nor any lubrication.


    Ok... penetrant.. again.. Eds Red.. next is Kroil oil.. next is CLP... Kroil and CLP are at least 10 times the cost... think hundreds or more bucks a year.


    Lubricant... best? who knows.. I have heard any grease will work... I use red high temp wheel bearing grease.. CLP is good if you flood the gun every time you use it... I have some fancy stuff like frog lube and in the pic? Tetra gun. Tetra is kinda cool as it coats surfaces like bores and makes future cleaning easier. This bottle will likely last for decades.


    lazs

     

    "Don't let it end like this. Tell them I said something."



    Pancho Villa, last words (1877 - 1923)

  • Soooo... what do you use to clean guns? well... again.. I have over the years used multiple systems. AT THIS POINT.. I would suggest at a minimum that you buy some kind of 'complete' gun cleaning kit.. the one in the pic above is like $30? and one of many I have used. You need rods (more later) and brushes and swabs and patches.


    You need old toothbrushes.. you need Qtips or better.. those foam thingies.. You need clean rags and used rags... but at some point... you need bore snakes.


    What are they? simply pull through cleaners.. the best ones have replaceable brushes and swabs.. the 'patch' part (for lack of a better word) is washable and does the work of 20 patches in one pass.


    Incidentals............... a nice bronze 'toothbrush' that will not harm surfaces and.........'lead wipe away cloth' that will clean lead from the front of cylinders or use as a patch (use only on stainless steel for cylinders)


    The guns in question took like 10 minutes for both to clean and preserve.


    The bore snake that I use for rifles is this one.. never clean from the muzzle again! these work.


    lazs



    "Don't let it end like this. Tell them I said something."



    Pancho Villa, last words (1877 - 1923)

  • I have all my stuff in a big green plastic tool box. I’m not taking it out for a photo but if I clean one in the near future I’ll post up a snapshot.

    Backyard Commandos INC, HMFIC


    I disagree but I respect your right to be stupid.


    Winners focus on winning, losers focus on winners.


    It's hard for liberals with mental disorders to think that other people don't also have the same mental disorders. - Danneskjold 2018

  • Some of my stuff is permanently out. I have like 4 containers of different stuff but mostly use the one in the pic for now. That is not counting the one piece cleaning rods for rifles that are leaning in a corner by the gun safe.


    I cleaned two guns this weekend that were 10 years old and had never been cleaned. People can clean guns too often but that was crazy.


    lazs

    "Don't let it end like this. Tell them I said something."



    Pancho Villa, last words (1877 - 1923)

  • I take them out of storage twice a year and inspect/lube them. I’m fussy that way. Carry stuff gets serviced monthly including all of my dedicated home defense stuff.

    Backyard Commandos INC, HMFIC


    I disagree but I respect your right to be stupid.


    Winners focus on winning, losers focus on winners.


    It's hard for liberals with mental disorders to think that other people don't also have the same mental disorders. - Danneskjold 2018

  • Depending on humidity I would say that once or twice a year is about right. I generally at least wipe em down with a CLP rag after inspection. I have bought so many products over the years that I have storage problems. I will sometimes use some bottle of something that is over ten years old. Some stuff is just for copper fouling for instance and I never have that problem to speak of.


    lazs

    "Don't let it end like this. Tell them I said something."



    Pancho Villa, last words (1877 - 1923)

  • Gun oil is the best aftershave.

    Backyard Commandos INC, HMFIC


    I disagree but I respect your right to be stupid.


    Winners focus on winning, losers focus on winners.


    It's hard for liberals with mental disorders to think that other people don't also have the same mental disorders. - Danneskjold 2018

  • I honestly believe that there is a lot of snake oil out there. Old time medicine show shit going on. Ed's Red is for instance a formula from the 50's and modified now using modern ingredients. It is basically a penetrant... lubricant.... cleaner... and preservative (when using the lanolin) It is around a tenth of the cost of most modern formulas.


    If you look at some special forces manuals you will see that in places where you need to clean your firearm but nothing is available like what you were issued? a bunch of stuff is recommended.. this would include.. diesel.. ATF... cooking oil (rarely) ... automotive synthetic oils (which are generally very light) a strip of cloth on a wire will work on a bore.. a toothbrush is still the best thing to have around. Automotive greases work extremely well... possibly better than commercial gun greases. The idea is to keep the firearm functioning. protecting the metal parts from rust is also important. allowing surfaces to not gall it EXTREMELY important.


    I WOULD RATHER SPEND A HALF A DAY CLEANING GREASE AND OIL OFF A FIREARM THAN TRYING TO REMOVE EVEN LIGHT RUST.


    pitting and heavy rust are almost tragic to me.


    lazs

    "Don't let it end like this. Tell them I said something."



    Pancho Villa, last words (1877 - 1923)

  • Use ATF instead. but yeah. A toothbrush and a bore snake on a locked open action are probly plenty good... in truth... for a lot of firearms that will work.


    lazs

    "Don't let it end like this. Tell them I said something."



    Pancho Villa, last words (1877 - 1923)